Bookcase Paint Problems... Latex Paint is Still Sticky

Ryan on 20 April 2009

I don't know much about latex paint... though I was wondering why you chose to use it. I know it can be pretty thick--did you chose it to cover up the grain of the MDF?

How about putting a coat of lacquer on top?

Mike on 9 June 2009

I had the same problem with a Behr semi-gloss once. I put a coat of clear, gloss polycrylic over the paint and it seemed to work well. Nothing has really stuck to my shelves since then (although I had some minor sticking for the first month or so after applying the polycrylic). Maybe that's worth a try?

Cindi on 25 June 2009

I read an article yesterday online about this issue. I feel the paint manufacturer's should tell people not to use semi-gloss latex paint on shelves or doors that will have something touching it eventually! However, in the article I read it was suggested repainting the shelves with alkaloid oil based paint is the best solution. I am NOT doing this. He also said sprinkling with talcum powder or applying a coat of wax would be a doable solution. I tried the powder & it solved the problem. The shelves still seem a teeny bit tacky, but stuff isn't sticking fast to them. GL

Anna on 6 July 2009

Boy do I know what you mean. A few years ago my husband was painting the front door to our house. We left it off a couple of days (blocked the door with a sheet of plywood in the mean time) and didn't attach the weather stripping for months until it finally got cold. You guessed it, the weatherstripping peeled the paint in several spots.

The front door still looks like crap when you open it. I haven't had the heart to redo it.

DaveP on 13 July 2009

Thanks for the great comment guys!

Ryan - I chose it because it's easier to clean up than oil and doesn't smell as bad.

Mike - the polycrylic could work but "nothing has really stuck" doesn't exactly sound like a ringing endorsement. lol

Cindi - couldn't agree with you more. I was looking at Consumer Reports paint ratings the other day and many of the brands had an excellent rating when it came to stickiness (but seeing as Behr semi-gloss was included I doubt I'd agree with these ratings). I'd like to see how oil-based paints compare, but it looks like they don't rate them for some reason

Anna - Sorry to hear about the door. That really stinks...

DaveP on 13 July 2009

I think I'm gonna bite the bullet and just repaint with oil-based paint. I like working with latex, but if things are going to stick to it forever it's not worth it. I've heard suggestions for dealing with the problem but I just want to avoid it all together. I'll let you guys know how things turn out. Thanks for the advice

LyssaC on 3 April 2011

I just got done building a built it attached to the 9 feet tall 8 foot wide book case.
Bought Valspar Ultra Premium Interior/Exterior Latex High Gloss Ultra White so it would be easier to clean. ( I have three kids)
Tonight however , putting books on the shelves, the paint was still tacky.
Now I feel stuck.
And disappointed.
How did you repainting with oil go?

Clay on 10 May 2011

I put two coats of Polycrylic (any sheen) over any interior painted surface that touches other objects. It works extremely well!! Thin coats, low humidity, allow to dry completely, and 70 degrees are the perfect conditions.

Kim on 3 August 2011

I live in humid Florida so understand about the humidity and sticky furniture. To ease the sticky/tackyness of painted furniture, apply a coat of Paste Finishing Wax or furniture wax, as in furniture paste wax, (Johnsons or MinWax). It's a creamy, paste wax that you rub on with a soft cloth, let dry, then rub or polish off with a cloth. I always finish off any furniture paint job with a coat of furniture wax. It gives the furniture a nice finish as well as providing a coat of protection (it adds a "hand-rubbed lustre to any finished surface" to quote the can of MinWax I have).

Another Tip: Re: use of latex based primers & paints on painted furniture. I use Kilz latex based primer on pieces as the oil based primers and paints make me actually sick and headachy. As for paint, I use Behr latex based interior Satin which provides a beautiful paint finish and it cleans pretty well. This is followed by the furniture paste wax after paint cures.

Last Tip for that wax: if you have fussy sticky drawers that won't slide properly, rub them along the sliding areas (if wooden) and the wax helps. You can also rub a candle along the wood if you don't have the wax.

Kim on 3 August 2011

This follows up my previous post about painted furniture. I meant to add that you can also "sand" your finished paint job with a piece of brown paper bag after the paint is dry. This smooths out the painted surface and it reallys make a difference. It actually will rid the paint surface of any little nubs or small paint "boogers" as I call them. Then I rub on the furniture wax.

jaime on 21 August 2011

I have a dining room table that I painted with Behr semi-glass (I believe it was latex based), and I'm having the problem you're all describing - a year later, it's still tacky/sticky to the touch. From my research, it seems that this is a common problem with latex paint (which is why I'm assuming I used latex), and that there are 3 possible solutions: 1), sand, prime, re-paint with an oil-based paint 2) cover the existing paint with a Polycrylic 3) furniture wax. I'm wondering if others have suggestions for the best long-term solution. Also, if I do choose to sand and re-paint with an oil-based paint, does anyone know exactly how much sanding is required? Thanks!

rosy gallica on 8 September 2011

This is the problem with latex paint theat no one seem to ever mention when it is used on wood surfaces!
What is wrong with the industry??? The entire US does not live in perpetual AC conditions!
Oil paint does not have the same problem, I have painted furniture and shelves with both kinds. The oil never gets tacky in humid weather: my desk and book shelves are fine, years after being painted .The latex ALWAYS gets tacky. My new closet shelves are a mess today. Will try the wax but probably will need shelf paper!

Me on 19 September 2011

Curious of latex paint is being applied over another coating with sheen, or stained with polyurethane? Or being applied over satin/semi, or gloss paint. Unless wood is fresh, you should always lightly sand the surface being sanded, just for adhesive purposes. And ALWAYS give latex paint, AT LEAST 24-48 hours to dry, before putting any thing on, or against it.

I do agree that coating with a furniture wax, or poly coating is good. That must be allowed to dry thoroughly, BEFORE putting anything on it.

Just my 2 cents